malossi gears installation

ok, this little how-to will show you how to install those shiny new malossi gears.

first of all, you should know that you must have a transmission from a variated vespa to do this mod. any variated vespa will do (bravo, si, grande), but a stock ciao transmission will not work. bummer if you don’t have the proper one.

this photo shows you nearly everything you’ll need;

variated vespa transmission
malossi racing gear set (got mine from fred, but treatland has them cheap as well.)
10mm wrench

other useful items not shown include either a transmission rebuild kit (new gasket, new bearings) or if your bearings look ok, some gasket paper to make yourself a new gasket, and some 90w gear oil.
i learned the hard way that you want to use gasket paper at least as thick as the original gasket. the first time i installed these gears in a transmission, i used grey liquid gasket maker. the gasket maker junk squeezed too thin when i torqued down the tranny cover, putting too much pressure on the washers inside, causing one to split. the split washer ruined my day, to say the least.

after cleaning the transmission up real well to get all the gross off of it and draining the oil, you’ll want to remove the four bolts located on the front that hold the cover on. once removed, you should see something along the lines of this:

take care not to lose any of the washers. it’s no big deal if they fall out, it’s pretty obvious where they go when you start putting things back together, just don’t lose them.

once you have the transmission case split, go ahead and remove all the worthless stock gears. you could take note of where they go if you feel the need, but the point of this write up is that you don’t have to remember any of that because i will tell you what to do. dur.

now you’ll want to have a look at your needle bearings to make sure everything looks a-ok. mine looked perfect, and this made me happy. it would have sucked to have to stop now that everything’s torn apart and order a rebuild kit.

everything looks good here!

now that you’ve successively dumped the remaining oil that didn’t drain from the gearbox all over your brand new back patch by accident, you can move on and start installing the new gears.

fist, install the drive axle with the spring, large washer and set pin in the right locations. the order should go as such;
large flat washer
big springy spring
larger flatter washer
set pin

you’ll now notice that the largest of the gears in your malossi gear set has that flat notch through it, allowing it to fit perfectly over the set pin on your main drive shaft. how convenient!

you’ll notice the last of the two large flat washers goes on the shaft over the gear, as shown in the photo.
EDIT! NOTE! LOOKIT! i want to make a quick note here, in my pictures i have the large cog (only one installed so far in the above picture) in upside down. it will still work just fine this way, but clicking the transmission into bicycle mode will not work properly, and may not work at all. i found this out after writing this write up and i never did come back and correct it.. sorry duders! everything else is a-ok! /EDIT! /NOTE! /LOOKIT!

here is where i start to wish i had used a flash for my photos. also, i should mention that you could probably do the previous steps last if you so choose. it might actually make every thing easier in the end. i’m just writing this the way i did it, which worked just fine for me.

once you have the main dive gear installed onto your main drive shaft, you’re ready to install the next gear.
the gear you’ll want is the one with the larger fine toothed cog on bottom, and the smaller course toothed cog on top. don’t forget to put one of the small flat washers between the gear and the bearing. slide a second flat washer over the top of the gear once you have it in. it should look something like this:

as you are installing these gears, you’ll notice there’s a pattern going on with the washers and gears. it’s pretty simple, really.. washer gear washer. washer gear washer.

let’s move on. it should be obvious which one comes next, but i’ll explain it anyway.
next is the gear with the smallish, fine toothed cog and a long collar. the cog goes down, and the collar goes up, frat boy style.
don’t forget your washers!

sweet action! now all you’ve got left is the clutch drive axle!
axle goes in!

now that you have everything sitting where it belongs, it is time to install your new gasket. go on, i’ll wait.

ok, now that you have your gasket in place, go ahead and slide the transmission face plate onto the clutch drive shaft and set it in place. it might take some working of the large cog to get it in right, as the spring keeps trying to push it up out of position.
slap that shit on and bolt it down!

there you have it! are you ready to haul ass? because your vespa is! well, it will be once you re-install everything on the bike. and don’t forget to refill your tranny with w90 gear oil!
have fun! show those vespa haters that we really can go fast!


23 Comments so far
Leave a comment

This is amazing! And it is written with teh jokes! Thanks for this great how-to.

Comment by adam

Awesome Blossom!

Comment by Tyson

Might I make one comment! 🙂 I would probably fill the tranny with fluid and then drain it and refill with fresh fluid after your engine kit is broken in. That would probably be about the correct time for the gears to settle in and any burs or small pieces of metal to come off them. New fresh fluid might help increase the life of gears and make them happy.


Comment by michael mike

good point mikemike!

Comment by terrydean

hey james, i got mine from fred. i updated the writeup to include a link to his email so people can get a hold of him to get them.

Comment by terrydean

Nice how-to.

For anyone in need of these gears…. I HAVE THEM!
Available, all parts are in stock ;).


Comment by Frederick

I’m so glad my gears aren’t broken and they are supposed to not move! I will try leaving out the washer when I get around to putting them back in. First I need a good rear wheel. always my problem.

Comment by rufus

so what gasket did you end up using dean and have you tested this shit out yet?

Also the gears arn’t suppose to move freely? Makes sense since they dont’ in car trans missions with out tons of torque.

Comment by mike

i ended up making my own gasket from gasket paper that was about twice as thick as the orignal.
the gears should move freely, i just goofed up the first time i did it.

Comment by terrydean

Hey man,
nice how to!

Only one thing, the big axle with the letters malossi on it has to be otherwise!
now the cycle function wont work well.

when ur gonna check my site again ?


Comment by Herr FlicK

Oh crap? You mean the big fat gear with Malossi engraved has to be flipped a particular way in the hub? Interesting.

Comment by robm

[…] made.  But not really because there is an excellent “How To” on just this over here at Dean’s blog.  I know I’m bad for not even taking a single picture of this process.  I just had to get […]

Pingback by Feeling guilty in my underwear. « Vespa mopeds

what kind of oil goes in to the rear wheel and what kind?

Comment by piero

Thank you Thank you Thank You !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!THANK YOU!!!!!!!!

Comment by Jeshua

excited that I get to use this, whilst installing my gears in race bike ❤

Comment by ryan

The large gear I received does not have Malossi printed in the recessed ring or anywhere on the gear. If I understand this article and the various manuals correctly, the side of the large gear with the smaller (narrower) recessed ring should face the small cover side. By small cover side I mean the side of the case with the freewheel fork. If you have the gear turned the wrong way, it looks like the fork feet would sink into the large recessed ring, which means the fork would bottom out at its stop before completely disengaging the large gear. Oriented correctly, the fork feet touch the outer machined face of the gear instead.

Comment by sanitycheck

The gears should turn easily by hand. Turning the splined axle by hand will be more difficult because you have less mechanical advantage, but it should still be possible to make the variator shaft spin. The variator shaft should turn with zero effort. If it does not, disassemble/reassemble until the gears don’t bind. Lightly tapping the splined shaft and small-side of case with a rubber mallet while progressively turning gears may help. Torque cover bolts in small steps and in a star pattern. Do NOT leave out washers or you risk having the gears grind away the inside of the case. Thicker gasket material than those sold by vendors is mandatory. Even with stock gears a properly reassembled and torqued case may leak, bind, or both. Fel-Pro Rubber-Fiber gasket material part number 3157 is perfect for this use. Use a paper hole punch to make perfect-size bolt holes. Use the same punch to trim the two larger case dowel holes slightly larger.

Comment by sanitycheck

yup yup! however, i use a .22 rifle shell to punch my holes for bolts and dowels. works awesome and is way more bad ass to have kicking around your tool box.

Comment by terrydean

Can I just buy two gasket from treats and put them together or do I just need one new gasket before I tighten it down.

Comment by Zac

one should be enough. if, after assembly, the transmission seems tight, you’d better go with two.

Comment by terrydean

Thanks Terry really appreciate it

Comment by Zac

That was totally the greatest, I have a grande with a 70ccpolini and now finally and up gear kit ! Thanks again for taking the time and if you have any questions on crank cutting , head machine or porting feel free to email. I figured a way to add a third port to the stock cylinder I did it for a local weirdo, works great .

Comment by Al Harpham

wa who

Comment by mopedman

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